Cameo Jewelry

Cameo on shell

Shell Cameo, Image from Matteo Pedani

Cameos have been a wardrobe staple since the 3rd century BC, with Grecian trendsetters paving the way. Extremely popular well into Roman times, these mini sculptures are known for their raised figures. They were often worn as jewelry such as rings, earrings, or brooches and larger reliefs were appreciated as art. Cameos captured famous moments in history, acclaimed icons, and dear relatives. Join us as we learn more about cameo jewelry.

What are cameos made of?

There are two major categories of cameos and they are separated by materials. There are seashell cameos and ones made of hard stones. The term “hard stones” encompasses semi-precious stones, with agate being the most commonly used. The benefit of using agate as a medium is its layered nature. You’ll be familiar with this look as it makes the classic cream face with brown toned background. The more shades of color you see, the more craftsmanship was employed. While this is more rare, you can also find cameos in colored stones such as coral, opal, lapis, emerald, amethyst, and ruby. Keep in mind that older cameos were made of glass as well, with craftsman finding them a cheaper alternative to a hard stone.

How to value your vintage cameo

The biggest determining factor in value is rarity. You may think age is directly related to financial benefit, but older pieces don’t necessarily translate to higher worth. The level of detail or craftsmanship also creates the final picture of a piece’s value. As you inspect your cameo, look for details such as strands of hair or wardrobe features. The more detailed, the greater the return on your investment.

Image from the Library of Congress

Judge Mary Margaret Bartelme, 1913

The quality of the piece itself plays an important final role. Hold the cameo up to the light for any cracks or chips as they will directly impact its worth. Beyond the stone or shell, look to the setting. If the cameo remains in its antique setting it will be considered more valuable to potential buyers.

How to tell if your cameo is real

As with many antique or vintage pieces, the market is flooded with fakes. As you begin your investigation, look first at the cameo itself. An authentic cameo is carved out of one solid piece, so look for glue marks. Fakes are often made by layering different carvings, so glue indicates a faux piece.

The best way to ensure your cameo’s authenticity is to work with trusted shop owners and dealers. Ask them for documentation proving the cameo’s provenance and carefully inspect the information included. If its lineage is unknown, then follow our above clues and make sure you build up a working relationship with the shops in your area.


Cause A Frockus would like to thank their tremendous resources: Antiques Roadshow, Wikipedia, and the people who post their imagery without restriction.

For our readers: Do you have a cameo in your collection? Tell us about what it means to you and what you like to wear it with in the comments below!


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