The handkerchief
May 22, 2015 | by Becky Oeltjenbruns
A stunning example from the CAF collection
It’s allergy season here in Texas, so that means two things for me: a runny nose and watery eyes. While I have a handkerchief collection, I’m always quick to grab a Kleenex as I have this fear I will ruin my delicate collectibles. As I was questioning my feelings on this (after all, it’s not like I can’t clean them), I wondered – what is the history behind the versatile handkerchief?
First things first: before it was called the handkerchief, it went by a shorter name – kerchief. Greeks used these fabric accessories much like we would now, but in other cultures they were used as a head scarf. In fact, this distinction in use is why the name got lengthened. Kerchiefs became exclusive to the covering of one’s head, while the other uses (to wipe one’s nose or brow for example) were associated with handkerchief. Fun fact: ancient statues attest the importance of both these small accessories as far back as 1000 BC.
Artists weren’t just incorporating the handkerchief into their three dimensional designs – these wardrobe workhorses were finding their way into poetry – that’s right – poetry! During Roman times, they were seen as luxury items for the rich, signals for the start of chariot games, good luck charms for soldiers, and material for poems. Now that’s what I call multi-tasking… In the era of Shakespeare the handkerchief even enjoyed the limelight in plays. This little bit of fabric (which by now had become increasingly detailed with embroidery and lace), was a major plot point in Othello.
From the Cause A Frockus collection
During this time, handkerchiefs continued along their trajectory as a noble status symbol. Royalty asked that beautifully intricate handkerchiefs be incorporated into portraits. They were also part of dowries for the elite class, and the larger the fabric – the more important you were (naturally). By the time the Victorian era rolled around, handkerchiefs were a critical component for the young ladies of the day.
Handkerchiefs entered a more prominent role in the realm of fashion by the Great Depression. In the throes of economic turmoil, a handkerchief was the only new accessory a gal could afford. A pop of color went a long way in sprucing up ensembles. (Up to this time, handkerchiefs were primarily white with color accents.) It stayed a fashion staple for decades, until the invention of the Kleenex started to simplify housewives’ laundry routines. Despite the disposable hanky taking hold, the 1950s are commonly considered the golden age of handkerchief design. Bright colors, fetching illustrations, and even rhinestones found their way onto both souvenir and boutique pieces. Check out our gallery of fun examples on Pinterest.