Biba
May 15, 2015 | by Becky Oeltjenbruns
The Biba minidress
What goes around comes around in the fashion world. Look no further than the recent 1970s vibe of the Met Gala for an example. Yet based on the recent spread in W Magazine, it seems like the 60s is positioned as the latest rebirth of vintage style. So I decided what better time than now to learn about one of Britain’s revolutionary fashion institutions from the flower power era – Biba.
Like Selfridge’s before it, Biba was a cultural touchstone in the vibrant city of London. Yet before it advanced to iconic stature, Biba started out as the mail order business of Polish fashion designer Barbara Hulanicki. How did she go on to create such a dynasty? Determination, discipline, and talent of course! Shortly after WWII a young Barbara moved to England and enrolled in art school. Much like other great designers, her journey started in the illustration department. Barbara created fashion art for the popular publications of the day and those relationships helped her advertise her mail order ensembles. In the early 1960s Biba posted a now-legendary advertisement for a pink, gingham dress. Sounds simple enough, but this frock was inspired by something the stunning Brigitte Bardot had worn. Given the rising power of the youth culture and the steady growth of the public’s fascination with stardom, Barbara’s clients couldn’t order fast enough. By the time the dust settled, around 5,000 orders had been received for this vision in pink. Capitalizing on that momentum, Barbara opened her first brick and mortar shop in the heart of town. Her approach was ahead of its time – Barbara made celebrity style accessible. It was akin to “instant gratification” fashion. She knew what her customers craved and that was made abundantly clear when Biba sold out of their wares before noon on opening day!
Another reason her shop garnered a cult following: Biba was famous for creating a uniquely decadent and lush atmosphere for their shoppers. Stores were decorated in the vein of Art Deco, Pop Art, Rock and Roll, and Art Nouveau. (Even the labels echoed those details with stylized gold letters on a black background.) That flashy vibe, combined with Biba’s affordable and modern-styled offerings, made it the perfect hang out for local and famous artists alike. Just think of Biba as the original, cooler version of today’s H&M. (Fun fact: rumor has it a young Anna Wintour started her fashion career at Biba.)
Love that Biba label! Image by Kesslers Ltd
On the tenth anniversary of the Bardot dress, Biba went big. Occupying the large Derry and Toms department store, it became a top tourist destination. All seven floors had a different aesthetic, ranging from funky to pop art to Hollywood glamor, and beyond. The eclectic, quirky feel didn’t speak to the mature shopper – but that wasn’t who Biba was targeting. A Biba gal was in her 20s, thin, and edgy (think Twiggy). For these pretty young things, appearance was everything. Even if the clothes were itchy (which they sometimes were), it was considered of no consequence because the cut was flattering. Biba’s color scheme started out as earth tone or muted, but became brighter as the brand evolved. As always, Barbara kept her ear to the ground, anticipating her customers’ desires. At Biba a shopper could find her complete “going out on the town” ensemble – from top to toe. And naturally the newest craze, the miniskirt, was stocked in abundance.
Biba’s mission to remain constantly one step ahead of the trends proved unsustainable. Sadly, even a celebrity fan base and devoted shoppers couldn’t save the store. After nine years of groundbreaking successes, Biba’s doors closed. But that wasn’t the last we would hear from Barbara. She went on to design collections for other fashion house labels, including Fiorucci. (This Italian firm was known for its swinging style and Studio 54 clientele, so a perfect fit for Barbara’s natural design inclinations.) Interestingly, in recent years another London department store has purchased the rights to the Biba brand, retaining Barbara in a creative capacity. So W Magazine has it right – there is still a passionate audience for 1960s fashion.
So let’s talk for a minute about Biba’s legacy for a moment. Would it be fair to say that Biba paved the way for the 24 hour/trend-driven fashion? I think that the legacy runs deeper, because even though I never had the pleasure of shopping at Biba during its heyday, I have to say from description alone – today’s 24 hour fashion shops leave a lot to be desired. I’ve never walked into an H&M or Forever 21 and thought “oh man, this funky vibe feels so boutique and really speaks to me.” So what do you take away from Biba’s tale? For me, Barbara’s focus on her clients’ is pretty epic. For a designer to see the world through the patrons’ eyes, apply their own talent to it, and come out with a creation that defines a generation… isn’t that the goal of every great designer? So perhaps the lesson is a question – does Biba prove that fashion driven by trend can leave a lasting impact? Let me know what you think in the comments!