Feb 24, 2014 | by Becky Oeltjenbruns
For this month’s beauty tutorial we visit the 1920s – an age of glamor, incredible music, cultural happenings, and the debut of the flapper girl. Defined by her iconic finger curls and dramatic makeup, she was a force to be reckoned with. Once more the amazing Ashton at Pinup Salon in Austin put together a great look that perfectly captures the sass and sizzle of this vintage decade.
Step by Step | Flapper Makeup
Start by applying powder under your eyes; use a brush and don’t skimp. The excess powder will be wiped off after you do your smoky eye – think of it as your insurance policy. This powder will collect all the excess eye shadow as you work on your smoky look and with one swipe you’ll instantly clean that area and you’re ready for a night on the town!
For the smoky eye, take your base color and work from the center of the lid to the edges. You will layer it and make it darker at the outside edge, but Ashton also likes to do some shading toward the inner eye as well. Her favorite thing about this look: unlike the 1960s cat eye, there isn’t a large degree of precision needed. It can be a more forgiving vintage look to try out if you’re new to experimenting with retro glam looks.
Ashton’s tip: Don’t worry if you think it looks a little weird before you’re done. With a dramatic and bold smoky eye, it really comes together in the final moments. So don’t panic or worry – just keep on beautifying yourself and enjoy the results!
Keep in mind that the 1920s flapper makeup look was very dark and extreme. Add some under eye concealer to help your dark lids stand out. Next Ashton likes to add primer to your face, apply blush to the apples of your cheeks, blend and finish with an all over foundation powder.
Using a stippling brush, smudge the dark eye shadow along your lower lash line – under the eyes. Smudge it more and make it thicker as you work toward the outer edge. With your eyes closed, apply liquid liner to your top lid. Next, we prepare for the false lashes to take our look to the next level!
How to apply false eyelashes like a pro
The first thing to do is curl your lashes as this will help your natural lashes hold the false lashes better – you’ll get a much longer wear time. Next, you will want to measure the lashes and trim them as needed. Make sure they’re not too long before you start adhering them! It’s very important that the lashes are flexible, so to loosen them up roll them between your fingers and pinch into c shapes.
When it comes to adhering false eyelashes, Ashton recommends always buying a separate glue, rather than using the glue that comes with the eyelashes. She personally uses Lash Grip. Gently rub a bead of glue along the lashes’ edge. Be sure it’s not too glob-like or heavy. Do not apply the lashes right away – fan it for a few seconds and let the glue get nice and tacky first. Ashton also suggests sticking with a white glue rather than a black-tone glue. It’s a bit easier to see where you’re at as you apply the lashes.
Apply the lashes to your closed eye lid, doing your best to stay with the curve of your lid. She applies it with her fingers, but she said tweezers may work easier for some people so experiment to see which technique works best for you.
If it feels like something is stuck as you open your eye, taking a q-tip, gently break up any obstruction and separate the bottom and upper lash lines. (To remove your false lashes later, pull from the outside corner in.) Now that our false eyelashes are set we can get back to our flapper makeup!
Final Steps | Flapper Makeup
With our false eyelashes drying, Ashton works on our lower lash line. Using a silver or black eye liner, line the inside of your lower lash line. A fun tip: using a white liner will make you look more refreshed and awake!
Next, fill in your eyebrows as needed with a pencil or eyebrow powder. We are ready to finish up our lashes now. Because this look is so dramatic, we’ll be playing up our bottom lashes too. Taking your mascara brush and working side to side, apply mascara to your bottom lashes. Repeat and do this for your top lashes. This will also visually marry your false and natural lashes, so it won’t be easy to tell you’ve enhanced your amazing lash assets.
We finish by applying a dark red tone to the lips. If your lips are cracked, you’ll want to use a lip gloss as that’s more forgiving than a matte lip color. (See Ashton’s lip moisturizing tips to make your lips red color ready!) The 1920s was all about the heart shaped lip, so if your lips aren’t naturally that shape, you can use concealer to create a “v” on your top lip to complete the heart shape. Rather than using lip liner, put a little concealer on a stippling brush and trace around your lips. Lastly, use a setting spray (like De-Slick by Urban Decay) to keep your dramatic eyes fresh from dawn til dusk!
Cause A Frockus would like to thank our tremendous vintage glam expert, Ashton at Pinup Salon in Austin, TX.
For our readers, what is your favorite vintage makeup look to wear for a night out on the town?