Vintage Hair Color
May 5, 2014 | by Becky Oeltjenbruns

Ava Gardner in The Barefoot Contessa, 1954
One of the joys of vintage is that you can mix up your look everyday with a unique dress, accessory, or handbag – so why not transfer that creative energy to your hair color? Figuring out a great vintage hair color look is tricky, but Ashton with Pinup Salon is here to the rescue! Read on to find out more about the history of hair color and great tips for incorporating a new hue into your personal style…
A brief history of hair color
Cultures have been dying hair different colors for centuries. During the Roman period hair color even determined class. Blonde or red tones conveyed high intelligence and prominence, while dark colors indicated a lower status. In time color became less about class and more about expressing moods. Despite the less stringent rules associated with hair dying, the technique made it restrictive in nature. The process only became accessible with the invention of Miss Clairol in the late 1940s, early 1950s. The color dial focused on natural shades and the special hair color bath enabled housewives nationwide to channel their favorite Hollywood icons. Popular style mavens of the day included the stunning Jean Harlow, Jane Russell, and Ava Gardner.

Marilyn Monroe and Jane Russell at the Chinese Theater, 1953
Despite the desire for glamour, hair color didn’t lose its negative connotations until the 1970s. As it became more mainstream, stylists began to push the envelope. In 1977 Manic Panic hair dye debuted bold colors that were quickly embraced by the punk rock crowd and singers such as Cyndi Lauper. Today dying hair is seen as a fun way to express individuality. Read on, as Ashton will give us some great advice for making your personalized color choice.
How do you find the perfect hair color?
The first factor you need to consider is your skin tone. Ashton advises you must be selective if you go red because skin tones pull red anyway. Be careful and consult closely with your stylist. If channeling Marilyn Monroe is your preference, be realistic. It’s very challenging to make that color look natural if you aren’t naturally more blonde in hue. Also, pay heed to your skin texture – this is a major factor for blonde hair. Clearer skin is better because the color is so light it won’t hide any imperfections. Keep in mind that just because you have fair skin, that doesn’t mean you have to go with a darker hair color. If your skin is creamy you can pull off lighter colors with ease.
What’s a good first hair color to try?
As you start experimenting, choose a dark demi-permanent gloss. Many of Ashton’s clients will go burgundy at first and then try to go blonde. That is a problem because the hair will lean toward a peach hue during that process. Be aware that going from blonde to red and back to red is very tough to achieve as well. Ashton advises that the best first color to try is a glossy version of what you already have. Remember that most people’s natural hair color looks great, it just needs an extra oomph. Once you’ve figured out how to enhance your natural look, you can start to play with more color and different styles.
How do you keep hair color from fading?
Ashton’s number one tip: always be sure to wash with color protecting shampoo and conditioner. Between the two, shampoo is the most important because that is the step that will work to strip the hair of its color. Don’t wash your hair in hot water as the temperature will expand the hair cuticle and release the color.

Theda Bara as Cleopatra in 1917
Washing your hair in the coolest temperature that is comfortable for you is a great foundation to your hair care routine. Mostly, your approach won’t have to change dramatically – in essence take care of your locks, nurture them, and keep them healthy. Continue to use masks and heat protecting products as you enjoy your new look. Taking these small, extra steps will go a long way in preserving your new appearance.
Ashton’s favorite hair color look
For Ashton, nothing can beat Theda Bara’s dark hair. “She was so dangerous at a time when even a hint of scandal was a big deal. She was awesome. Classic blondes are stunning too, but the stand out for me is Theda Bara.”
Cause A Frockus would like to thank their tremendous resources: Ashton with Pinup Salon, the people who post their images without restriction, hairstyle stars, buzzle, regis salons, and hair finder.
For our readers: What’s your favorite vintage hair color and why? Which icon embodies your favorite hair color look?