Dressing on the Edge
Apr 24, 2015 | by Ellen Dial
Robe de style, Jeanne Lanvin. Courtesy: IMA
Cutting edge fashion. What comes to mind when you hear these words? The outrageous but drool-worthy garments we see each season on the catwalks of Paris and New York? The rarefied air of haute couture – clothing we covet, but could never actually own.
We think of dressing on the edge as a modern phenomenon – but is it really? Don’t all artists and designers want to push convention – past efforts may seem quaint now, but we are all creatures of our time. Lovers of vintage fashion know this to be true, there have always been mavericks in the world of fashion design.
The Indianapolis Museum of Art (IMA) recently opened an amazing exhibition called “Cutting-Edge Fashion”. Highlighting ground breaking haute couture from the 1920’s through the 1990’s – all I can say is wow! This author didn’t want to leave – so many gorgeous pieces. Dream worthy.
With this exhibit as the catalyst, let’s take a look at some early game changing “haute” shots, you ready?
On the Edge | Excuse me, is that a Robe de Style?
The roaring 20’s ushered in a revolution for women’s fashion – we’ve talked about dress reform before, gone were the 15 pounds of undergarments, binding corsets and enormous hats of the prior century. Dresses were cut to emphasize drape, falling gracefully off the wearers shoulders – but did all dresses fit this mold?
What were her options? Primarily the whimsical robe de style and body skimming gowns cut on the bias – creating an extremely alluring, yet elegant look for the wearer.
Callot Souers Evening Gown. Courtesy: IMA
The IMA shows two wonderful examples of the robe de style – an iconic Jeanne Lanvin from the winter 1927 collection and an unmarked wedding gown from around the same time. There is something innately youthful about the look – a slim, boyishly cut bodice and full skirt. Dialing back to the 18th century, the robe de style features skirts with yards of fabric and the use of panniers or stiffened petticoats to create the unique shape.
Sitting down must have been a chore!
Lanvin and Lucile led the pack with this silhouette, creating beautiful evening gowns and dinner dresses that spark the imagination. The robe de style was a favorite of more curvaceous women – having “junk in ones trunk” didn’t always translate well in the slim, tubular dresses of the era.
In direct contrast, the houses of Callot Souers and Fortuny celebrated the female shape with siren-worthy, body skimming gowns. Their glorious gowns were crafted through the creative use of texture and cut. A fantastic color palette and judicious use of embellishment didn’t hurt either. The female form is framed in all it’s glory – cut to flatter, a woman could be as provocative or prudent as she desired.
New Look Evening Dress. Courtesy: IMA
Take a look at the magical gown from the house of Callot Souers, the silk velvet is so fine as to be nearly transparent. With it’s asymmetrical skirt and mermaid train, this 1920’s gown could have hopped off the pages of the latest look book. The satin gown cut on the bias is phenomenal – it looks to be in motion, even on the mannequin. Our wonderful docent, Janet made mention “you could wear whatever you wanted under it” and left it at that – though as little as possible would be best. You’d have to be good at holding your stomach in all night….
And we think we’re sexy and we know it! They definitely knew it.
Fortuny. Perfection in simplicity. These dresses have always left me speechless. Rich colors and so very elegant. Nothing to them, really. Panels of Fortuny’s patented pleats and weighted beads along the side to ensure a good drape. They came in a box. You could belt them. Or not. Pair them with a beautiful cloak or tunic. Or not. When you had worn your gown several times and pleats flattened out, send it back to Paris to get re-pleated. The gown at the IMA is truly gorgeous.
On the Edge | Structure and De-Structure, Yea Baby!
Ensemble, Rudi Gernreich. Courtesy: IMA
The vivid red Dior evening dress from the 1950’s is an engineering marvel and an excellent example of Dior’s New Look. Everything is built into this dress: crinoline, corset, brassiere and garters. The wearer simply supplied the stockings and underpants [or not underpants, thank you Janet!]. This dress could stand up in the corner by itself, in all it’s gorgeous glory. I’m certain getting in and out of it was an adventure!
Ten years later, no more dresses standing up the corners. Rudi Gernreich, Courreges and a bit later, Yves Saint Laurent (YSL) broke more barriers and set the stage for the mods, space age, safari, men’s wear and disco.
Gernreich and Courreges pushed with soft knits in psychedelic prints or bright monochromes – tights, mini dress, gloves, hat and sunglasses all matching. Even underwear! Darling, youthful takes on menswear – trousers, shorts or knickers.
There are several super-groovy examples from both designers in the IMA exhibit – great food for thought for vintage fashionista!
Hustling on to the 1970’s. YSL broke through the mods with a military edged safari look. Muted colors, tunics, high waisted trousers, midi skirts and jackets. Epaulets and game pockets added a masculine touch – highlighting the femininity of the wearer. Throw on a pair of boots? You were ready for the Serengeti – or something.
Safari Tunic, YSL. Courtesy: IMA
Check out the fantastic YSL tunic from the IMA collection – I would so wear this today!
What’s old is new. There’s a nod to Dior’s New Look in almost every collection. The soft sensuality of the 20’s and 30’s still abounds, as does the tailored menswear of the 70’s and 80’s.
Who else pushed the envelope? Donna Karan? Comme des Garcons? Vivienne Westwood, Alexander McQueen – ranging from the silly to the sublime, the funky to the functional. But in some manner, making an impact on what we wear and how we think about clothes.
A question to our dear readers – what current designer do you admire? What past designers do you like and who made the biggest impact on current fashion?
The author would like to thank the Indianapolis Museum of Art, wikipedia.com, fortuny.com, dior.com and those who post their images freely on the Internet.