Feminism and fashion
Dec 2, 2015 | by Becky Oeltjenbruns
Credit: Dee Jarvis, Panache Imagery
If you’re anything like me, you have come to adore Emma Watson. From her portrayal of the smart-as-a-whip Hermione Granger to her upcoming performance as Belle, this gal has a knack for capturing strong characters. Thanks to her work with the UN, we have evidence that Emma is just as comfortable being a hero in real life as she is playing them on the big screen. As I was perusing the glorious interwebs last night I saw a headline that combined all sorts of goodies: Emma, fashion, and feminism – oh my! Naturally I had to click, eager to gain more perspective from a woman who seems to have an old soul.
In the interview, displayed in full in Porter’s “Incredible Women Issue,” Emma shines a light on an often overlooked issue: working conditions in clothing factories. These awful environments are mainly relegated to the female realm, due to the fact that most employees are women. When one thinks about feminism and fashion it’s easy for our minds to go to female fashion designers, the rejection of the corset, Chanel and the trouser revolution, or in more recent history: Karl Lagerfeld’s catwalk protest. But beyond all the glitz and glamour is the issue Emma poignantly highlights in her interview. The truly sad thing about this entire situation is that mistreatment of female labor is nothing new. History is indeed repeating itself and it is important for us to remember our collective past so we can learn from prior tragedies. Emma, much like all of us vintage enthusiasts, is an attentive history student.
I am only one but still I am one. I cannot do everything but I can do something and because I cannot do everything, I will not refuse to do the something I can do. – Edward Everett Hale
Perhaps the most scarring historical moment occurred at the turn of the century. In 1911, flames engulfed the corner of Greene Street and Washington Place. On this day in March, over the course of less than twenty minutes, 143 women lost their lives. Who were these women? Workers at the Triangle Shirtwaist Factory. A small fire in the rag bin quickly expanded and within moments panic spread throughout the factory. Only a handful of the workers were able to escape to freedom. This tower of flames and death shook the entire country, ushering in reforms and new laws aimed to protect workers. Sadly, this entire catastrophe could have been avoided by employing basic safety measures (the most tragic being the fact that the doors were kept locked during working hours).
Fighting the fire at the factory, 1911
Time moved on, as it always does, and memories become fuzzy. The event, prominent in that generation’s mind gets lost as they have babies and their babies have babies. The world goes through two global wars and society becomes increasingly focused on consumerism and instant gratification. Fashion, as a means of expression and status, remains a cultural addiction. Unfortunately, true to form, shoppers get their fix through any means necessary. This study, published earlier this Summer, echoes Emma’s comments – not much has changed since that terrible day over one hundred years ago.
What’s the best way forward? Tough question without a simple answer. But in my opinion, laws change and if history has taught us anything, politics is an ever-changing landscape. The surest way to get what you want is to vote – and lately our pocketbooks speak volumes. I’ve written before about the sustainable impact choosing a vintage lifestyle has on the world. Can that reach extend toward this cause? Can you improve conditions by not financially supporting these kinds of factories? Even some vintage labels are considered “twenty four hour fashion.” So maybe not. But don’t let a feeling of overwhelming sadness paralyze you. At times like this I’m reminded of an inspiring quote, which I’ve shared above. Emma has used her position and voice to do her “something,” what will you do?